Getting Around

The easiest way of travelling around Italy is by train. The Italian train system is one of the least expensive in Europe, reasonably comprehensive, and, in the north of the country at least, very efficient - and is far preferable over long distances to the fragmented, localized and sometimes grindingly slow bus service. Local buses, though, can be very efficient, and where it is actually a better idea to take a bus we've said as much in the text. Planes are expensive and are best reserved for longer journeys where time is tight. Ferries ply to all the Italian islands, and also serve international routes to Greece, Albania, Croatia, Malta, Yugoslavia, Corsica and Tunisia . We've detailed train, bus and ferry frequencies in the "Travel Details" section at the end of each section of the Guide: note that these refer to regular working-day schedules, (ie Monday to Saturday); services may be much reduced or even non-existent on Sundays.

Operated by Italian State Railways (Ferrovie dello Stato, or FS), there are seven types of train in Italy. At the top of the range are the " Pendolino " (CiS) and "Eurostar Italia" (ES), an Intercity service; in first class your ticket includes newspapers and a meal; reservations are included in the ticket price. Eurocity trains connect the major Italian cities with centres such as Paris, Vienna, Hamburg and Barcelona, while Intercity trains link the major Italian centres; reservations are advised on both of these services (and are sometimes compulsory anyway) and a supplement in the region of thirty percent of the ordinary fare is payable. (Make sure you pay your supplement before getting on board; otherwise you'll have to cough up a far bigger surcharge to the conductor.) Diretto, Espresso and Interregionale trains are the common-or-garden long-distance expresses, calling only at larger stations; and lastly there are the Regionale services, which stop at every place with a population higher than zero (and on which smoking is not allowed). For information on trains call 1478.88.088, or visit the useful Web site at www.fs-on-line.com .

In addition to the routes operated by FS, there are a number of privately run lines, using separate stations though charging similar fares. Where they're worth using, these are detailed in the text.

Trains don't go everywhere and sooner or later you'll have to use regional buses ( autobus ). Almost everywhere is connected by some kind of bus service, but in out-of-the-way places schedules can be sketchy and are drastically reduced - sometimes non-existent - at weekends, especially on Sundays, something you need to watch out for on the timetable. Bear in mind also that in rural areas schedules are often designed with the working and/or school day in mind - meaning a frighteningly early start if you want to catch that day's one bus out of town, and occasionally a complete absence of services during school holidays.

There isn't a national bus company, although a few companies do operate services beyond their own immediate area. Bus terminals can be anywhere in larger towns, though often they're sensibly placed next door to the train station; wherever possible we've detailed their whereabouts in the text, but if you're not sure ask for directions to the autostazione . In smaller towns and villages, most buses pull in at the central piazza. Timetables are worth picking up if you can find one, from the local company's office, bus stations or on the bus. Buy tickets immediately before you travel from the bus station ticket office, or on the bus itself; on longer hauls you can try to buy them in advance direct from the bus company, but seat reservations are not normally possible. If you want to get off, ask posso scéndere?; "the next stop" is la próssima fermata .

City buses are always cheap, usually costing a flat fare of between £1000/?0.52 and £2000/?1.03; it's normally a bit cheaper down south. Invariably you need a ticket before you get on the bus and once you've bought your ticket it is only valid for about an hour; within that time, however, you can use it on as many journeys as you like. Tickets are available from a variety of sources, commonly newsagents and tobacconists, but also from any shop displaying the biglietti symbol, including many campsite shops and hotel front desks. Once on board, you must cancel your ticket in the machine at the back of the bus. The whole system is based on trust, though in most cities checks for fare-dodging are regularly made, and hefty spot-fines are levied against offenders.